The version of D1 mini with OLED is the most complicated, but if you done a bit soldering before it will be an ease still.
The issue of this build is to find the 0.96 OLED (SSD1306) in the correct 4 pin-configuration of VCC, GRD, SCL and SDA, and hence match the pin out of MPU65050. As the ESP8266 only got one Ic2 bus, we need to align both the MPU and OLED on same bus. As the OLED can also be fund in a GRD, VCC, SCL and SDA configuration and this one is the most common, it can be tricky to find the correct ones.
The MPU6050 and OLED goes both till D1 Mini by the 5Vof D1 Mini till VCC, GRD till G, D3 till SDA and D4 till SCL. The temperature probe goes till 3v3 for power (red) of probe, the black (ground) goes til D5, and the signal goes till D7. Between 3v3 and D7 the resistor is placed.
Botland Store do sell the correct 0.96 OLED (link or link), and also sell all other needed components except the D1 mini. They also have small boxes there might be of use too (“Plastic case Kradex Z43 – 46 x 31 x 16 mm” and “Plastic case Kradex Z47 IP54 – 50 x 40 x 21 mm”).
- 1x D1 Mini
- 1x Juice Bottle cap, or Box (alternate box: Hammond 1551GBK).
- 1x DS18b20 probe, 1 meter, + resistor.
- 1x MPU6050
- 1x 0.96 OLED 128×64 (SSD1306) in the correct 4 pin-configuration of VCC, GRD, SCL and SDA
In the portal mode you can set the sensitivity or treadshold when a bubble should be detected. This is needed based on your airlock, tightness of airlock holder and fermenter, eg. your setup. Box version of AMICA should have 3 till 6, and I find 4 to be best. But you can finetune if needed to remove double blops or if you loose any.
If you build by a juice cap, and hence a smaller “footprint”, then the sensitivity of the logger get less, and you need to use a sensitivity treads hold of 2 – 2.5 instead of the normal 4 (fits the lager box version).
A version whiteout OLED can also be made from above components and Box (just use same below install file). If no OLED, then it best to attach MPU6050 on other side of Di Mini than the blue led as this picture show).
Install file and installiBLOPPER_v1.3_D1_MINI_OLED (22 downloads)
- Install CP210x USB to UART Bridge VCP Drivers, if not already done. If you played with Arduino IDE and NodeMCU before you most likely have done this before.
- Ensure NodeMCU is pugged into USB.
- Go to “Devices” (e.g. use win10 search and write “devices”).
- Under “Ports” in Devices. Notice this USB port number for “CP210x USB to UART”!
- Edit the “Window batch file” named “SETUP_USB_COMX” to reflect the port you using (eg. change the port number ONLY: “
esptool.exe --chip esp8266 --port COM4 --baud 115200 --before default_reset --after hard_reset write_flash -z --flash_mode dio --flash_freq 80m --flash_size detect 0x0 iBLOPPER_v1.1_D1MINI_OLED.bin“)
- Hit and run the “Window batch file” named “SETUP_USB_COMX”
- Now the iBLOPPPER software get installed.
If something goes wrong you can erase everything after editing accordingly as above by running “Erase_USB_COMX” (
esptool.exe -p COM4 -b 115200 erase_flash).
If updating to new build and/or making use of an D1 Mini from earlier project, ensure to erase everything as else you will get instability issues.
Secondly, always pull the power from iBLOPPER after installing before setting it up.